36 Hours in Seville, Spain

Life slows down for lunch in Andalusia. Steps away from the Setas de Sevilla, the popular mushroom-shaped observation decks rising above Plaza de la Encarnación, La Casa del Tigre’s eclectic décor blends oil paintings with folk-art evocations of tigers. Its tapas menu also mixes and matches, combining classic Spanish ingredients and flavors with innovative preparations. A juicy pork taco de puchero is served alongside a steaming shot of rich, savory broth. Two Andalusian staples — eggs and shrimp — meet in a delicate open-face omelet topped with a piquant citrus mayo. Stellar desserts include a stack of crisp ginger wafers layered between spiced pumpkin mousse. Lunch for two, without drinks, about 80 euros, or about $95.

Central Seville’s maze of narrow streets still recalls the souks of Andalusia’s medieval Moorish past. Among the global retailers today, there’s a surprising array of crafts, including jewelry, textiles and elaborate silk and gold fabric trimmings used to adorn religious sculptures and altar cloths seen in city churches. At Tenderete, the owner, Pilar Gavira, curates local ceramics like candleholders (from 32 euros) and tableware (10 to 55 euros) in colorful glazes. Heritage hat makers Sombreros Antonio García’s (founded 1847) custom flat, wide-brimmed cordobés hats (290 euros) are favored by Andalusian equestrians, but their more practical styles (60 to 120 euros), crafted of waterproof Spanish wool in colors like garnet or loden green, roll up for easier packing. After shopping, treat yourself to a scoop (2.50 euros) of pomegranate or cinnamon-spiced vanilla ice cream at Gloria & Rositas.

The newly opened Casa Inquieta has made itself heard — and not just with the plaintive notes and rat-tat-tat footwork of its pre-dinner flamenco performances in its multiple floors and spaces. After the show, one could make a meal of traditional Andalusian fried starters like calamari, tortillitas de camarones — crisp pancakes flecked with tiny shrimp — and ham or porcini mushroom croquetas. Heartier fare includes tender fried hake or Iberian pork cheeks braised in red wine. Dinner for two (not including flamenco performance, 32 euros), about 100 euros. Keep the party going with a short walk to Sissí, which combines a retro piano bar with mirror balls, lasers and ‘80s and ‘90s dance tracks for the 35-plus crowd. Cocktails 10 to 15 euros; reservations accepted.

Stop for an açaí bowl (7.90 euros) or eggs Florentine (9.40 euros) at Billy Brunch, or traditional Spanish morning fare, like toast with jamón ibérico (5 euros) and churros con chocolate (3 euros), at the nearby Bar Papanatas. Then stroll over to the Museo de Bellas Artes (1.50 euros), amid the cloisters of two stunning former convents and perhaps second only to Madrid’s Prado Museum in terms of the quality and range of Spanish art on view. Seville was the birthplace or training ground of many of Spain’s Golden Age painters, like Velázquez, Zurbarán and Murillo, whose work is displayed at the museum. Contemplate the sculptures, still-lifes and suffering saints, and then stroll the tree-shaded patios.

At the peak of Seville’s turn as Spain’s trade capital in the 16th and 17th centuries, the city also lured a new class of artists — engravers and printmakers — who came, largely from northern Europe, to depict its singular beauty in works that could be easily reproduced and collected. In his charming shop, the print dealer and vintage map expert Laurence Shand can explain the subtleties of antique maps and hand-colored historical views of Seville and other Spanish and European cities. Many such prints, ranging from 50 to 750 euros, were originally bound in large collectible albums, such as “Civitates Orbis” (1572-1617), which served to show the urban marvels of the world (and confer a certain worldliness to one’s library).

Triana is the once-hardscrabble, working-class neighborhood across the Guadalquivir River from Seville’s monumental districts. Cross the Isabel II Bridge for gorgeous views, then walk up Calle Pureza, a street offering a concentrated dose of Triana charm. Buy ceramics (or, with an advance booking, join a class and make them yourself; 25 to 40 euros) at Arte y Pureza, or pick up some pâtés, olives and other local delicacies at La Antigua Abacería. Then visit the royal parish church of Santa Ana (4 euros); begun in 1266, it got a Baroque facelift after being damaged by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The splendid altarpiece features scenes from the life of the Virgin surrounding 13th-century polychrome wooden sculptures of Mary and her mother, Saint Anne, often depicted as a sort of gentle giantess, considerably larger than her daughter to make clear that she’s the mother. Don’t miss the small treasury in the vaulted basement gallery.

Back at the foot of the Isabel II Bridge (also known as the Triana Bridge) stop for lunch at María Trifulca, set in a 1920s steamboat terminal for ferries shuttling locals, or sevillanos, downriver to the Atlantic beaches of the seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Perched over the riverbank, the restaurant has three levels and exquisite seafood displayed in cases on the bar. Try delicacies like sweet white prawns from the nearby port city of Huelva and the prized bluefin tuna caught near the Strait of Gibraltar. Weather permitting, book the upper terrace (reservations can be made up to a month in advance) for sweeping views of the river, the streets of Triana, and the spires and rooftops of Seville. Lunch for two, without drinks, about 140 euros.

The long street known as Calle Feria in the Alameda area still retains a strong neighborhood vibe, with many bars and businesses geared to residents (there is also a long-running Thursday street market). Among the mix is a surprising density of quality vintage clothing stores: Find well-curated and moderately priced selections at Antro and Wonder Vintage, while Jueves-Ropero Sevilla Vintage tilts more to statement pieces, including some flamenco ensembles. Nonna’s Vintage specializes in designer bags and Rómula, has unexpected finds like leather cargo pants from the hunting label Swedteam (140 euros), ’90s Armani jeans (45 euros) and an Ellesse tennis dress (60 euros) amid the stylish, color-coordinated displays.

Also on Calle Feria, the new Lebanese restaurant Zoco continues the marketplace vibe (“zoco” is the Spanish translation of “souk”). Translucent arches hint at a souk’s arcaded stalls and, like a food market, the kitchens and the menu are organized in distinct zones. Most of the starters are innovative takes on Lebanese classic salads and dips like tabouleh, fresh man’ouche flatbreads served with spiced hummus, labne and toppings like sizzling cubes of grilled lamb. The open kitchen’s grill offerings tilt more Spanish with octopus, leeks with spicy romesco sauce, roasted eggplant with hazelnuts and pomegranate or beef and marrow albondigas (meatballs). Dinner for two, without drinks, 80 euros.

Brunch is suddenly trendy in Seville — several new restaurants incorporate the word in their name. La Cacharreria is not among them, though it specializes in a wide breakfast and brunch menu, which includes distinctive gourmet toasts (12.50 euros) like dense, seeded brown bread topped with avocado, mango, roasted chicken and mozzarella or cloud-like Japanese-style brioche bread beneath brie, caramelized banana, chopped almonds and honey.

By now, you’ll have noticed many doorways lead to gorgeous flower-filled gated courtyards. Few retreats could be dreamier than the Palacio de Las Dueñas (12 euros), the palatial home of the Alba family, one of Spain’s most enduring aristocratic dynasties. In Andalusian tradition, the blank exterior walls give no hint of the earthly paradise within — a blend of Gothic, Renaissance and Mudéjar architecture, seen in its horseshoe arches and elaborate plaster reliefs. Eleven patio gardens, fragrant with myrtle, magnolia and lemon trees, feature fountains galore and some are furnished with beautiful antiques, tapestries and paintings hanging in the arcades. Nearby is the fabulous Casa de Pilatos (12 euros, plus 6 euros to see the private second floor), still home to the aristocratic Medinaceli family and displaying vibrantly colored mosaics throughout its multiple patios. Decide for yourself which opulent family home deserves top prize as the epitome of Andalusian indoor-outdoor living.