36 Hours

36 Hours in Grand Junction, Colo.

A view over towering red rock formations.

Andrew Miller

Grand Junction, Colo.

Grand Junction, the western Colorado city that abuts the state’s largest wine region, draws outdoor enthusiasts for its accessibility to both mountain and desert trails, abundance of water sports and the wondrous red-rock formations in Colorado National Monument. An eager adventurer in the late spring can even ski and bike on the same day. What visitors haven’t typically come for — until more recently — is the city’s ambience. Now with a small but growing destination-dining scene, new hotels, expanded arts programming and improvements like an ambitious riverfront development with an amphitheater and the historic train depot’s planned restoration, Grand Junction’s appeals extend far beyond just superb recreation.

Recommendations

  • Peach Street Distillers, one of Colorado’s longest-running distilleries, makes spirits with fruit from nearby orchards.
  • Pêche draws savvy diners from around the region for its seasonal, locally sourced dishes.
  • WestCo Brewing offers beer on tap, as well as an Asian-influenced menu of ramen and shareable plates.
  • Carlson Vineyards pours its own wines and ones from other Colorado wineries at its Grand Junction tasting room.
  • The Mesa Theater regularly hosts touring indie bands in a historic building that was once a playhouse and a movie theater.
  • The century-old Avalon Theater offers concerts, films and other performances.
  • SoCo Social House is a cocktail bar in a 1906 brick building that once was a beer warehouse.
  • Melrose Spirit Co. is a small bar in the Hotel Melrose that has an innovative cocktail menu.
  • The Dream Café serves breakfast and lunch in a midcentury-modern-style dining area.
  • The most efficient way to get around is by car, and rentals are available at Grand Junction Regional Airport. Grand Valley Transit runs public buses ($1.50 one way) in Grand Junction and the neighboring towns of Fruita and Palisade. Ride-hailing apps like Uber and Lyft are also available.
  • The downtown Hotel Melrose, built in 1908 and recently refurbished, has 16 stylish, dark-hued rooms as well as a small cocktail lounge and an outdoor patio with fire pits. There’s no front desk, so check-in and communication are by text message. Rooms start at $266.
  • The modern, 60-room Hotel Maverick sits on the campus of Colorado Mesa University, offering students in the college’s hospitality management program real-world experience — and they nail it. There’s a rooftop restaurant, a coffee shop and complimentary bicycles for guests. Rooms start at $234.
  • Tucked behind an industrial neighborhood, Camp Eddy includes an R.V. park as well as riverfront lodging in nine modern tiny homes (sleeping two to six) and 10 nicely restored vintage Airstream trailers (sleeping two to four). Tiny homes and Airstreams start at $160.
  • For short-term rentals, refer to the tourism board website Visit Grand Junction, which compiles a listing.

Itinerary

Friday

A formation of rocky hills.

Book Cliffs, near the horse range.

Andrew Miller

3 p.m.Hoof it to see wild horses

At the Little Book Cliffs Wild Horse Range, spotting a small band of the 100-or-so horses that roam here is almost as exciting as seeing wildlife on a safari. The horses’ lineage traces back to ones bred by the Ute people until the group’s forced relocation in the early 1880s. The 36,113-acre range (free entry) is one of only three in the United States designated solely for wild-horse protection. Explore the range from the Coal Canyon trailhead, 18 miles east from Grand Junction. Hike a mile or two along a well-maintained trail into the main canyon. Even if you don’t come upon any horses, enjoy the rugged, open landscape dotted with fragrant sagebrush, as well as pinyon and juniper trees.

A formation of rocky hills.

Book Cliffs, near the horse range.

Andrew Miller

5:30 p.m.Quaff a peach

The multitude of orchards around Palisade, a small town 14 miles east of Grand Junction, produce peaches known for their juiciness and intense sweetness. But it doesn’t have to be midsummer to enjoy some of that flavor. Pull up a seat at the rustic-style bar at Peach Street Distillers, one of Colorado’s first boutique spirits makers, and try a peach picker mule, which includes brandy and nectar made with Palisade peaches ($13). Or sample some of the distillery’s other spirits — whiskey, gin, vodka and more.

A plate of salad with pear and pomegranate on a restaurant's kitchen pass.

Pêche

Andrew Miller

7 p.m.Feast on simple elegance

From the distillery, you need only walk two blocks to Pêche, where for almost seven years the husband-and-wife team of Matt and Ashley Fees Chasseur, both veterans of Michelin-starred dining, have overseen a tight menu that accentuates ingredients from the area’s many farms and ranches. In the small, bright dining room, savor fresh pasta with wild mushrooms ($38) or perfectly seared lamb chops accompanied by an eggplant relish, toasted focaccia and creamy ricotta ($68). That smoke occasionally wafting through the dining room? It’s not out of the open kitchen but rather from the crème brûlée ($10) finished tableside. The Chasseurs plan to open another restaurant, Tiki Bird, in downtown Grand Junction later this year.

A plate of salad with pear and pomegranate on a restaurant's kitchen pass.

Pêche

Andrew Miller

People ride mountain bikes on a desert trail.

Mountain bikers on the Lunch Loop trails.

Kristin Braga Wright

Saturday

A bird sits on a low branch that emerges from a body of water.

The Connected Lakes section of the James M. Robb–Colorado River State Park.

Kristin Braga Wright

7:30 a.m.Seek birds and breakfast

Look for ospreys, bald eagles and Gambel’s quails — just some of the more than 200 bird species that frequent the Connected Lakes section of the James M. Robb-Colorado River State Park ($10 entrance fee) about three miles from downtown. Level dirt paths encircle the three small lakes. Afterward, tuck into a plate of decadent French toast ($15) at the midcentury-modern-style Dream Café on Main Street; it’s made with the huge cinnamon rolls the cafe is known for. Or opt for one of seven varieties of eggs Benedict, from classic to jalapeño steak ($13 to $18.50). Don’t worry about the calories — you’ll work them off later.

A bird sits on a low branch that emerges from a body of water.

The Connected Lakes section of the James M. Robb–Colorado River State Park.

Kristin Braga Wright

9 a.m.Explore the desert by bike or on foot

Moab may be known for desert mountain biking, but many Coloradans head instead to the roughly 300 miles of maintained trails around Grand Junction — they’re just as fun. Rent bikes at Grassroots Cycles (from $75 per day), then ride two miles to the popular Lunch Loop trail system to explore more than 20 miles of singletrack routes for all levels (easy and intermediate trails are closest to the trailhead). Expect to be challenged by some of the rocky terrain, so don’t let the expansive views of Colorado National Monument’s striated cliffs overly distract. If a mellow hike is more your speed, drive west about 12 miles to the Devil’s Canyon trailhead in the McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area, where a series of interconnected loops winds among the weathered red rocks.

An open sandwich with meat, slices of tomato and lettuce, along with a side of fries.

WestCo Brewing

Andrew Miller

12:30 p.m.Enjoy lunch, microbrew samples and a river view

Among Grand Junction’s evolving assortment of microbreweries, one of the newest is WestCo Brewing, open since October on the city’s south end. The Asian-influenced menu includes shareable plates like karaoke fries ($13), a variation on poutine with Japanese chicken curry, and three types of ramen ($18 to $21), including one with smoked brisket. Sampling just a bit of beer at lunch is easy thanks to three-ounce pours ($2 to $3) available for almost all of the dozen or so beers on tap, including an easy-drinking Japanese lager made with jasmine rice. Afterward, stroll along the paved Colorado Riverfront Trail, which runs by the brewery.

An open sandwich with meat, slices of tomato and lettuce, along with a side of fries.

WestCo Brewing

Andrew Miller

2 p.m.Go to a rock show

Immerse yourself in an extraordinary landscape of multihued sandstone monoliths, sinuous canyons and sculpted cliffs at the 20,500-acre Colorado National Monument, where the rock has eroded into fanciful shapes over millions of years ($25 vehicle entrance fee). For the best overview, download the park’s geology pamphlet and drive the 23-mile, paved (and curvy!) Rim Rock Drive, stopping at designated overlooks to view formations like Balanced Rock, Kissing Couple and Independence Monument (where every July 4, climbers carry up an American flag). The drive takes about an hour one-way, longer if you take short hikes like the Coke Ovens or Canyon Rim trails.

A sculpture on street that depicts a person walking on a horse's back.

“Horse and Rider” by Philip Maior, part of the Art on the Corner outdoor sculpture exhibition downtown.

Kristin Braga Wright

4 p.m.See the sculptures and the shops

Back in the city, on Main Street, stroll by art like the life-size bronze of the screenwriter Dalton Trumbo, who grew up in Grand Junction, editing a script in his bathtub — it’s one of about 130 pieces around town in one of the country’s longest-running outdoor sculpture programs. Among the indie shops lining Main Street, find a selection of Colorado-crafted paintings, ceramics, furniture and other art at the new West Winds Gallery, as well as pours from the local winery Sauvage Spectrum ($6 a glass during happy hour, 4 p.m. to 5 p.m.). Buy a bag of Swedish ginger licorice ($10) at the Hog and the Hen, a gourmet market and deli that’s well stocked with imported sweets. Riffle through stacks of new and vintage vinyl at Triple Play Records, browse volumes on Colorado history at Grand Valley Books, and sample various local wines at Carlson Vineyards’ tasting room (from $15 per flight).

A sculpture on street that depicts a person walking on a horse's back.

“Horse and Rider” by Philip Maior, part of the Art on the Corner outdoor sculpture exhibition downtown.

Kristin Braga Wright

6:30 p.m.Eat seasonal

At Bin 707 Foodbar, settle onto a leather banquette in the boho-modern dining room — amid an assortment of Pop Art, potted plants and cookbooks — to savor the regionally sourced dishes. The restaurant appeared on the list of The Times’s 50 best last year, and the chef and owner, Josh Niernberg, has earned five James Beard Award nominations for his creativity with seasonal cuisine. On the ever-evolving menu, this approach shines through in starters like sunchoke hush puppies with satisfyingly creamy whipped Cotija cheese and guajillo lemon honey ($16) and an entree of exceptionally tender cured duck breast with puréed mayocoba beans grown by Colorado’s Ute Mountain Ute Tribe ($44). Even burgers and pizzas from the wood-fired oven ($22 to $29) stand out with toppings like pickled fennel, miso chimichurri or huitlacoche aioli.

A cocktail with a small square of chocolate resting on the rim. An Enstrom brand chocolate bar that reads "almond toffee in dark chocolate" rests at the base of the glass.

SoCo Social House

Andrew Miller

8 p.m.Choose live music or craft cocktails

Check the schedule at the Mesa Theater or the century-old Avalon Theater; these Main Street venues host touring bands like the indie favorites Pigeons Playing Ping Pong and Neko Case. If sipping cocktails appeals, head to SoCo Social House, in a small 1906 brick building once used as a warehouse for Coors beer. Settle in with a Midnight Muse, a vodka-based concoction spiced with black cardamom ($13) and snack on a chocolate-toffee bar ($3) from Enstrom, a decades-old local candy company. Down the block at the jewel-box-size Melrose Spirit Co. in the historic Hotel Melrose, bartenders get creative with tropical-tinged drinks (all $13) like the Unknown Pleasure (a twist on a whiskey sour with toasted-coconut bourbon and baking spice).

A cocktail with a small square of chocolate resting on the rim. An Enstrom brand chocolate bar that reads "almond toffee in dark chocolate" rests at the base of the glass.

SoCo Social House

Andrew Miller

Bin 707 Foodbar appeared on the list of The Times’s 50 best restaurants last year.

Andrew Miller

Sunday

A cross-country skier makes their way across snowy ground.

Skyway Trails

Andrew Miller

8 a.m.Ski or snowshoe along a mesa

Find snow and views for miles on the Grand Mesa, the world’s largest flat-topped mountain, about 40 miles east of Grand Junction. Rent cross-country skis or snowshoes ($20 to $25 a day) at Odin Recreation on the way, then continue to the Skyway Trails ($20 suggested donation), part of a 19-mile network groomed for skiing by the nonprofit Grand Mesa Nordic Council. Glide across meadows and through conifer forests in this high-elevation paradise, where snow often lasts through late April. Downhill skiing more your thing? Spend the morning at Powderhorn Mountain Resort, a small ski area on the mesa’s edge that punches above its weight in terrain variety (lift ticket, $99 in advance online; gear rental, $59; open through early April).

A cross-country skier makes their way across snowy ground.

Skyway Trails

Andrew Miller